Austvågøya

Sun, Vikings and a dip in the polar bear pool

Today we set off on the legendary Cycle Route 1: From Fiskebøl onwards, there's no discussion, just pedaling. Asphalt and views are in a head-to-head race. The air smells of the sea, adventure, and a touch of sunscreen—the latter the real sensation, because Lofoten and good weather appear together about as often as a moose in an iced coffee.

The path winds past white beaches that look as if the Maldives had just called IKEA. Deep fjords cut through the land, the water shimmering and so inviting that it briefly makes you lose your mind. Anyone who actually ventures in will turn into a polar bear at the first shock of cold – or at least wish for a hot water bottle and a bar of chocolate to comfort them.

But back to the story: Austvågøya was already Viking land when the wheel was still considered a murder weapon. From here, people plundered, fished, and argued until the doctor came – or the next storm. Then, in the Middle Ages, the big boom: stockfish. Cod still hangs on every other house today, and even your nose knows immediately where the wind is coming from.

During World War II, things became less idyllic. The island served as a launching pad for British commandos intent on spoiling the Nazis' cod. Spies, explosions, sabotage—everything was there. Hollywood would make three movies out of the story and still miss the best part: the locals simply carried on living. With or without uniforms in their front yards.

Today, Austvågøya is a postcard-perfect sight, complete with sore muscles. In Svolvær, at the end of the tour, salt water mixes with sweat, and the view of the mountains says it all: Up here, nothing's for free. But for a few rays of sunshine, a perfect beach, and a glimpse of history, every pedal stroke is worth it.

And anyone who dares to take the plunge can confidently claim to have swum with polar bears. Norway certificate included.